Great Skin…think…”Grape Skin”

Everyone wants clearer skin, brighter skin…great skin!  But with all those “promises in a jar” how do we make the right choice?  Well, it helps if you understand how your skin really works.  Your skin is your body’s largest organ and the one we most often mistreat.  No matter how many vitamins and supplements you take, your skin is the last organ to reap any of those benefits.  We wash it, we dry it and sometimes moisturize it; and then we hit our 30’s and 40’s and wonder what the hell happened.

I love pictures, so let’s use a visual aide.  Imagine a large glass vase.  Layered within the vase, from the bottom to the top, are the following; a thick layer of firm, plump grapes, followed by a layer of sticky raisins tightly compressed, and finally, a thin layer of dry, flaky, oatmeal.  This vase represents the structure of our skin from the inside out.

The grapes represent healthy cells which are born in the basal cell layer, or bottom of your epidermis, every 28 – 30 days.  At around age 30 this process begins to slow down, cycling to about every 40 – 60 days in mature skin.  In a normal cycle, the plump, healthy skin cell (grape) pushes up to the surface as part of its natural life cycle.  In the process it becomes flat and sticky (raisin) and eventually reaches the surface, dying (oatmeal) and flakes off.  As we get older this natural exfoliation process slows down and both the raisin and oatmeal layers get thicker, making it harder for the grapes to move up.  As a result, we see an increase in the layer of sticky cells (raisins) and a large accumulation of dead skin on the surface (oatmeal), leaving less room for healthy, plump cells (grapes).

Products applied to the skin in this condition don’t get past the oatmeal to the healthy cells below and the surface of the skin is left parched, lined and dull.  Imagine watering your grass without raking the leaves.   Depressed yet?  Don’t be…we can trick the skin into behaving like it did when it was young.  In order to do this we must thin out the oatmeal and raisin layers.  Chemical and physical exfoliation is key!

Physical exfoliation, such as manual scrubs and cleansers, will address the oatmeal layer.  Physical exfoliants like ground walnut shells have gained popularity recently, but should be avoided. Their sharp, jagged edges can cause micro-tears in the skin, opening the door for irritants and bacteria to enter.  When choosing an exfoliating cleanser, choose a product containing small, round and uniform particles like dimethicone or polyethylene beads. Scrubs made with sugar and salt crystals are also a good choice because they dissolve when moistened and allow you better control.

Chemical exfoliation will loosen the stickiness of the raisin layer allowing it to better release.  Lactic acid, retinols, salicylic acid and poly hydroxy acids are all great choices.  The power is in the combination of the physical and chemical working together.  For best results, look for regimens that provide a synergistic approach that incorporates these ingredients into its steps.

In your quest for great skin be sure to avoid over-exfoliation.  This can cause chronic inflammation that will accelerate the aging process. It is possible to combine the right chemical and physical exfoliators for maximum benefits and find the perfect balance for your skin. The secret is not to overdo it. If your skin looks red and angry or becomes painful or sensitive after exfoliation, give it a rest and use a bland cleanser and moisturizer for a few days while your skin recovers.

Here’s to great skin!

Nancy

Tags: aging, cleansers, dull skin, exfoliation, scrubs, skin

Is Father Time Chasing You?

Do you have a “product” graveyard?  It generally consists of bottles and jars that once held the promise of something beautiful, something magical.  Alas, there is no single product or ingredient to address our concerns.  Why?  The origins of our skin conditions are complex and require a synergistic approach in order to make real changes.  Many factors contribute to the onset of problems such as acne or sun damage and no single ingredient nor product will provide a fast fix.

No matter your age; we are all aging, all the time.  At age 20, spending time at the beach without sunscreen or worse, visiting the tanning bed to gain that glorious “sun-kissed” look begins our skin’s demise.  At age 30 our production of collagen drops 1% a year and our skin renewal decreases by 50%.  As Father Time begins his pursuit we find ourselves running with no destination or plan in mind.  Generally, we run from cosmetic counter to cosmetic counter, from product to product, from promise to promise without satisfaction.  At the end, all we have to show for it is a product graveyard worth hundreds of dollars and no apparent change in our skin.

In order to make real changes, you need to trick your skin into “behaving” as though it is younger.  We need to increase cell turnover, create an environment where your skin will begin to create more collagen and elastin, and protect your skin from further damage.  Obviously, we have many things to address so we will need multiple approaches.  A multi-medication approach is best.  We must choose the right medications, in the right formulas, and apply them in the right order to create real change.

How in the world do I choose?  Look for regimens built into systems where each step addresses one or more of your concerns.  Look for products with “active” ingredients as well as products that contain ingredients in efficacious amounts; not just a “dusting” of the ingredient (we often see this with peptide technology).  Always look for a product guarantee.  I recommend a 60 day, money back guarantee.  This allows enough time for the medicines to do their job.  Before you buy, do your research and look for clinical proof to support the product’s claim.

It is never too late to start a new habit and make real change.  If you are fortunate enough to love your skin, be sure to protect it so you may enjoy it for many years.

Here’s to great skin!

Nancy

Change…

We have reached the first week of February and already most of us have tossed our resolutions of health and self-improvement aside. According to a New York Times article, come January’s end, one-third of us break our resolutions and by July, most have been relinquished them altogether.

Why do we fail? There is no easy answer but in general, we look for a quick fix and approach our goals with no real strategy in place. In 2012 I’m determined to break this cycle…physically, in the way I do business and of course in my ongoing battle with aging.

Why will 2012 be different? Structure and simplicity. As one of my friends say, “keep it simple stupid”. Determine the changes to be made and put them to paper. What days, times, etc. will you perform these activities? Figure out what your days really look like so your new schedule is realistic. If you hate to work-out at night, be sure to allow time in the morning. If you can’t find time to wash your face after that glass of wine before bed, complete your skincare routine as soon as you return home for the day. If you don’t have time to make a healthy breakfast, be sure to have good choices available for “grab and go”.

If you have already tossed your resolutions aside, feel free to pick them up again…no one is watching. Determine the changes you want to make, put them on paper, schedule them into your “real life”, and share them with someone who will hold you accountable.

If you would like to join me in my battle with aging but you’re not sure where to start; a plan of attack is close at hand. Be sure to request a copy be sent to your email. Change is good!

Here’s to great skin!

Nancy

When Holidays Happen to Skin…

Black Friday has come and gone and the holiday season is in full swing … and so is seasonal stress. Gift lists, addressing cards, holiday menus, party planning, traffic, crowded malls, sold-out items from wish lists, long lines at the post office, late arriving flights… even compiling this list is causing a surge in cortisol levels. While it may be “the most wonderful time of the year,” holiday season is most often one of the most stressful times of the year as well.

With so much to do between now and New Year’s Eve, many of us burn the candle at both ends trying to get it all done. This means we generally deprive ourselves of sleep and this deficit quickly takes a toll on you emotionally and physically, and it shows on your face. Sleep is crucial because our skin recovers and renews at night. When you sleep, the cells undergo repair and turn over slightly faster, helping your face look bright and refreshed. If you don’t get enough sleep, your skin may appear flat and dull.

Mounting stress and lack of sleep will certainly make their first appearance on your face. Your body responds to stress with an increase in the stress hormone, cortisol. Cortisol is part of the natural fight or flight response that enables self-preservation. But when you’re all stressed out with no place to go (like waiting in line at Target), cortisol can wreak havoc with virtually every organ in your body and that shows on your most visible organ, your skin. The signs are obvious: breakouts, an ashen or sallow complexion, the flushing of rosacea, dark under-eye circles, dull and limp hair, and more pronounced lines and wrinkles. And what’s more, the effects of stress and lack of sleep on skin are cumulative. This is not where you want to find yourself when you are preparing for all of your holiday festivities.

My new favorite time saver during the holidays is to shop online. This allows me to avoid the stress of crowds and parking lots and I don’t have to get all bundled up to go outside only to find myself sweating to death once I have begun my excursion through the mall. I try to use this extra time to exercise or relax, not to mention getting the precious sleep my body needs to look its best.

Enjoy your friends and families but be careful not to over indulge. Skin may become a bit more sensitive during this time of year; moisture loss, dryness, burning or redness. These symptoms may occur when there has been a disruption of the skin’s outer barrier so be sure to use products that contain ingredients such as Dimethicone. These will help to strengthen your skin’s lipid barrier and help it to be more durable during this holiday season.

Here’s to great skin!

The Knife or the Needle?

Laugh lines not so funny? Furrowed brow leave you looking like you are in a permanent state of unhappiness? If you are considering having a bit of work done you may find your fountain of youth at the end of some very sharp needles; acupuncture needles.

Acupuncture is an ancient form of Chinese medicine used to treat skin from the inside out. The fundamental concept is one of balance, like “yin” and “yang”. The idea is to balance the body through restoring the natural flow of energy, Qi (pronounced chi), in the body. Acupuncture is believed to move energy within the body, resulting in bringing blood to the face as well as stimulating collagen and elastin.

During cosmetic acupuncture small needles are inserted into the face to stimulate circulation, boost collagen production and “plump up” fine lines or wrinkles. Some enthusiasts believe the “lift” that results from the procedure is a wonderful alternative to a traditional face lift. Although the thought of having needles stuck in my face seems a bit daunting, I have to admit I am intrigued. My research shows that most clients feel no pain at all and actually leave the experience feeling more relaxed than when they arrived.

Most cosmetic acupuncture practitioners agree that it is not just about the face; the body must be addressed as well. They believe that by addressing additional parts of the body as well, the body will be able to better support the benefits seen in the face.

If you decide to give this “needling” a try it is important to know that most practioners agree you will require 8-16 treatments to receive your full benefits. Individual sessions range anywhere from $100-$250 per visit. Once you have completed your series, maintenance appointments are required 1-2 times per year. Be sure to do your research and learn your risks. In the meantime, stop frowning and smile. Smiling requires fewer muscles and happy people always look younger! Here’s to great skin!

Summer and Oily Skin

July… hot, humid, sticky and downright uncomfortable. The summer months seem to be a bit more uncomfortable for those of us with oily skin. It seems as though nothing will help. Whether you have very oily skin or just oil in the t-zone, the results can make it difficult to maintain a fresh and polished look. There are a variety of causes for oily skin:

• Heredity
• Diet
• Hormone levels
• Pregnancy
• Birth control pills
• Cosmetics you use
• Humidity and hot weather

The main cause of oily skin generally lies in one’s genetic makeup – an excess of a hormone called dihydrotestosterone (DHT). Too much of a good thing, this metabolite of testosterone, DHT is responsible for triggering sebaceous glands to produce sebum. A higher than normal level can result in a virtual oil slick.

Oily skin may appear shiny, thick and dull in color. Very often, an oily skin will have larger pores, pimples and blemishes. It tends to be prone to blackheads and whiteheads as well. Because of the hormonal shifts of adolescence, oily skin is common in teenagers, but it can occur at any age. Hormonal imbalances can also upset the oil balance in your skin and increase the activity of sebaceous glands during pregnancy and menopause.

An oily skin condition can present many issues; the main concern is generally acne. As oil production increases it may become sticky as it combines with dead skin cells causing a blocking of the pores. This blockage creates the perfect environment for an overgrowth of bacteria. This of course, results in breakout and inflammation.

You may not be able to change the nature of your skin but there are ways to combat the problems that accompany oily skin. Use products that contain sulfur and salicylic acid to help remove clogged pores. Be sure to exfoliate on a regular basis to help remove dead skin build-up. Benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid will also help to kill bacteria on the skin. Be sure to look for products that are oil-free and offer oil control benefits as well. It is important to remember that every pore has pimple potential so treat your entire face, don’t spot treat. To help control your oil throughout the day, look for blotting papers with Zincidone. They will immediately reduce surface oil, inhibit bacteria, provide a matte finish and over time, it will help to reduce oil production. Find the right skincare regimen to help you maintain a healthy, even skin tone and allow your skin to live foundation free. Here’s to great skin!

Your Skin and Cigarettes

We all know the dangers and risks associated with cigarette smoking. Even with all the bans on public smoking we still see hordes of young men and women lighting up. The facts that link smoking to lung cancer, heart disease and other systemic diseases doesn’t seem to be of enough concern to steer young people away from cigarettes. It seems as though being fashionable and thin goes hand in hand with smoking; think Lindsay Lohan. Most people don’t realize, cigarette smoke contains more than 4000 toxins many of which are absorbed directly into the bloodstream and right into the structure of your skin.

Several studies show that cigarette smoking promotes premature skin aging of the skin. This means the “fashionable and thin” will be replaced with the “haggard and old”. Smoking cigarettes reduces the effectiveness by which the skin can regenerate itself. This is due to the constriction or narrowing of the blood vessels at the top layers of the skin which in turn reduces blood supply (to the skin). A reduced blood supply causes a reduction in the amount of oxygen to the skin and effects the removal of dead skin cells which would allow for regeneration.

In 1985, Dr. Douglas Model added the term “smoker’s face” to the medical dictionary based on the results of a study he published in the British Medical Journal. Dr. Model found he was able to identify smokers (who had smoked for ten years or more) by their facial features alone. These distinctive characteristics were present in roughly half of the smokers he surveyed, irrespective of the patient’s age, social class, exposure to sunlight, recent change in weight and estimated lifetime consumption of cigarettes. The following were the characteristics he found to be consistent among smokers:

• lines or wrinkles on the face, typically radiating at right angles from the upper and lower lips or corners of the eyes, deeplines on the cheeks, or numerous shallow lines on the cheeks and lower jaw.

• A subtle gauntness of the facial features with prominence of the underlying bony contours. Fully developed this change gives the face and ‘atherosclerotic’ (sic. A bit like choked up blood vessels) look; lesser changes show as slight sinking of the cheeks. In some cases these changes are associated with a leathery, worn, or rugged appearance.

• An atrophic, slightly pigmented grey appearance of the skin

• A plethoric, slightly orange, purple and red complexion different from the purply blue colour of cyanosis or the bloated appearance associated with the pseudo-Cushing’s changes of alcoholism”

Dr. Model said, “The fact that so many of the people with smoker’s face were fairly young indicate that smoker’s face is not simply a symptom of age…”There have also been numerous studies that show smoking can increase psoriasis, have harmful effects on the skin’s ability to heal wounds, increase the risk of wound infections and increase risk of skin cancers such as squamous cell carcinoma.

Other skin conditions associated with smoking are:
• Premature graying of hair.
• Discoloration of distal hair of mustache often called as Smoker’s mustache.
• Discoloration of fingers and nails of hand

Smoking to stay thin? Thin body, thin skin. The results from a British study on twins showed that a smoker’s skin was a quarter thinner than that of the non-smokers and in a few cases there were differences of up to 40 per cent. (Twins study, St Thomas’s Hospital).

When all is weighed the choice is obvious….if you want to be fabulous and fierce for a long time, don’t smoke. Here’s to great skin!